Working on my 1st design so I have a few questions and hope to get some pointers.
I'm looking at starting with a 8" lg x 1.5 dia. x .07 wall grade 9 titanium tube threaded with a 1/2 lg, 28 tpi on each end.
For the end caps, I'm stuck between grade 2 titanium or 316 SS. The 1.25 lg blast chamber will be integral with the muzzle end cap.
The bore will be .368 dia. I plan on 8 K-baffles .75 lg. made from 316 or 17-4 SS.
Please take a look at the pics and send the feedback.
1st 300 Blackout design
Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
I'm not much of an expert by any means, but it's my understanding that K baffles like you have designed are great for subsonic rounds. If you plan to use Supersonic hunting rounds, you might be better with cones.
Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
I was wondering what the intended use is. I do like K’s but they really seem to have fallen out of favor. If it’s really intended for subs only, the SS might be overkill.
I’m building a great big one for a 510 whisper right now but I’m going to make all but the first from 7075. I think the proximal cap is a good place for 17-4 just for durability of the threads.
The waist vent is a bit bigger than most I’ve seen. Seems like the consensus anymore is to plunge in straight from the front until you have a nice little crescent shaped hole. I have seen some pretty big holes that reportedly sound good but my commercial cans have pretty small holes. You can probably enlarge it later without much pain.
Idk. I’ve not built anything yet so I’ll defer to the guys who have on those details.
I’m building a great big one for a 510 whisper right now but I’m going to make all but the first from 7075. I think the proximal cap is a good place for 17-4 just for durability of the threads.
The waist vent is a bit bigger than most I’ve seen. Seems like the consensus anymore is to plunge in straight from the front until you have a nice little crescent shaped hole. I have seen some pretty big holes that reportedly sound good but my commercial cans have pretty small holes. You can probably enlarge it later without much pain.
Idk. I’ve not built anything yet so I’ll defer to the guys who have on those details.
- offroadcowboy
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Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
Thanks Mr. Fixit. I will be shooting supersonics for hunting so I'll design up a cone and spacer one and post it.
Base, I'm not sure what you mean by waist vent. Is it the exit cap counterbore or blast chamber in the muzzle cap?
Thanks again for the advice.
Base, I'm not sure what you mean by waist vent. Is it the exit cap counterbore or blast chamber in the muzzle cap?
Thanks again for the advice.
Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
There is a good possibility I just made up that term. What I was referring to is the hole in the middle of the k-baffle, opposite the scoop in the proximal face, that vents the bore to the coaxial space. Sounds like it is a moot point though. Darn, I thought I might have found a k-baffle buddy
I have a couple of manufactured k-baffle cans that were made for supers and they pretty much suck. Reinforces the consensus around here that they are really better for subs. I think you will have a lot easier time machining the cones though, so that is an upside.
I have a couple of manufactured k-baffle cans that were made for supers and they pretty much suck. Reinforces the consensus around here that they are really better for subs. I think you will have a lot easier time machining the cones though, so that is an upside.
- offroadcowboy
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Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
No worries Base. After looking at a picture with some descriptions, what you said makes sense now. Sorry about abandoning the K-baffles, but I need to shoot supersonics also.
- offroadcowboy
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Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
Cone and spacer design.
Titanium tube 1.5OD x .07 wall x 8.0lg. The threads will be 1/2" long at 28tpi
End caps, cones & spacers will be 17-4 SS
Titanium tube 1.5OD x .07 wall x 8.0lg. The threads will be 1/2" long at 28tpi
End caps, cones & spacers will be 17-4 SS
Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
Looks good, a couple comments.offroadcowboy wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2023 5:41 pm Cone and spacer design.
Titanium tube 1.5OD x .07 wall x 8.0lg. The threads will be 1/2" long at 28tpi
End caps, cones & spacers will be 17-4 SS
.070 is thick for the tube walls. You could get by will as thin as .035 but that would be hard to thread, if that's how your attaching end caps to tube. For supers it doesn't need to be taken apart. You could shoot subs through it and then several rounds of supers to 'clean' it. But if you need to thread it .058 should be enough.
- offroadcowboy
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Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
I want to be able to remove the cones for cleaning and replace if I get a bullet strike.
The depth of a 28tpi is .0222 nom. With a .058 wall that would leave .0358 nom. for the wall thickness at the threads.
I guess that could work.
Where is the best place to get .058/.060 wall gr9 titanium tube?
The depth of a 28tpi is .0222 nom. With a .058 wall that would leave .0358 nom. for the wall thickness at the threads.
I guess that could work.
Where is the best place to get .058/.060 wall gr9 titanium tube?
Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
I buy from Onlinemetals.com since they have a place local I can pick up. That way I don't have to pay shipping. Otherwise, I cruise Ebay for drops and short parts. For Ti I also buy from Tiger Metals.
- Capt. Link.
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Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
Weld this up!
I get the finger-bang of mechanical take apart things but in the end its a dirty muffler.
I get the finger-bang of mechanical take apart things but in the end its a dirty muffler.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
Like Link said, weld it. Unless the customer wants a threaded tube, I weld just about everything now.
FFL 07/02 SOT
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Re: 1st 300 Blackout design
To the OP:
I know you have some concerns about a baffle being damaged ,however this almost never happens. I started building back in 82 and in all that time I had one major fail. A knucklehead used a uber light experimental suppressor on a belt fed machine-gun. After nearly a full belt It suffered from whats called SAG.....it melted. I have seen a few customer induced problems caused by a loose suppressor but never when the can was mounted properly. Even these where a strike happened the damage was minimal and no action was needed.
Keeping a welded can clean is no problem either. Do what the we did in service....drop them into a light oil after use. CLP would be even better.
I know you have some concerns about a baffle being damaged ,however this almost never happens. I started building back in 82 and in all that time I had one major fail. A knucklehead used a uber light experimental suppressor on a belt fed machine-gun. After nearly a full belt It suffered from whats called SAG.....it melted. I have seen a few customer induced problems caused by a loose suppressor but never when the can was mounted properly. Even these where a strike happened the damage was minimal and no action was needed.
Keeping a welded can clean is no problem either. Do what the we did in service....drop them into a light oil after use. CLP would be even better.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895