Dipping aluminum cans.

[ranb]

I've had it and will never make another take apart can with aluminum parts or with K baffles again. They are too delicate to take apart all the time for cleaning. From now on they will be all stainless with spacers and cone baffles.

Until then I have to find a way to get them apart after hundreds of rounds have gone through without resorting to extreme measures. I figure that the part of the can most susceptible to being dissolved in the dip is the aluminum threads on the tube. I removed the end caps on my 9mm can and coated the inside threads with petroleum jelly; hopefully this will keep the vinegar/peroxide solution away from the metal. I let it soak for an hour then removed and rinsed it with cold water. The internals slide right out with minor tapping with my dowel.

The threads do not seem pitted. If the metal has deteriorated, I will find out during the next trip to the range. My 22lr can is in the dip now, hopefully it will come apart as easy.

How long does this dip last anyway? Thanks.

Ranb

[YourCoWorker]

I've dipped the baffles of my Element twice. I used 1 cup of each ingredient and that seemed to be just enough. bubbling is vigorous at first, but eventually stops and some stirring is involved to finish.

[twodollarbill]

I've had it and will never make another take apart can with aluminum parts or with K baffles again.
Ranb

Ouch!!!!

The secret to making a great take apart 22lr can is to bore your threaded area a greater diameter then your tubes inner diameter.
That way your baffles will drop right in and not get hung up on your threads.

Cleaning.......tumbling with stainless media......period.

Stainless Steel or Aluminum?......If your host weapon can handle the weight, I agree and yes go with stainless.
But then again, I have suppressors that are 30 years old with aluminum parts
that still look brand new inside with hundreds if not thousands of rounds fired.

Lastly.....don't blame K baffles. I've had some old school cores swapped out with K baffles and they simply kick ass.
I have yet to make or shoot anything with Omega baffles.
So for me now, I will stick with K Baffles for 22lr and pistol calibers. Rifle calibers will get stainless cones.

[ranb]

What happens is that if I shoot more than a few hundred rounds though the can without taking it apart, the gunk builds up between the K baffle front flange and the skirt on the tube effectively locking it into position. I need to soak the can in a solvent to loosen the gunk or use brute force to get the internals out or a combination of both.. The baffles are not hanging up on the threads.

I put 300 rounds through my suppressed Ruger MKii and the spacers/cones slipped right out with small taps on the removal dowel. The silencer tube is much cleaner when the baffles and spacers are covering it and not allowing the lead and gas byproducts to touch it.

With stainless baffles I can make them thinner than aluminum for the same strength. It just takes 4 times longer to make a SS baffle vs an aluminum one.

I am going to try shooting wet all the time and immediately disassembling the can to ensure nothing sticks too hard. If the tube walls are wet, the gunk should not stick as hard right?

Ranb

[Bendersquint]

What happens is that if I shoot more than a few hundred rounds though the can without taking it apart, the gunk builds up between the K baffle front flange and the skirt on the tube effectively locking it into position. I need to soak the can in a solvent to loosen the gunk or use brute force to get the internals out or a combination of both.. The baffles are not hanging up on the threads.

I put 300 rounds through my suppressed Ruger MKii and the spacers/cones slipped right out with small taps on the removal dowel. The silencer tube is much cleaner when the baffles and spacers are covering it and not allowing the lead and gas byproducts to touch it.

With stainless baffles I can make them thinner than aluminum for the same strength. It just takes 4 times longer to make a SS baffle vs an aluminum one.

I am going to try shooting wet all the time and immediately disassembling the can to ensure nothing sticks too hard. If the tube walls are wet, the gunk should not stick as hard right?

Ranb

With all the warnings about the dip on aluminum why are you even attempting to use it? It will deteriorate the aluminum and it will lose its integrity.

I gotta find my camera so i can show you guys a picture of a spacer that I threw in the dip along with some SS baffles, I forgot the spacer was aluminum. Its not useable anymore.

Petroleum jelly will not protect the threads.

[Capt. Link.]

The sparrow started the whole sleeve idea so cores don't get stuck why not use a very thin tube with a slit down one side or SS foil to build the tube.It will allow you to disassemble your can and save your suppressor tube from the dip.

[Bendersquint]

The sparrow started the whole sleeve idea so cores don't get stuck why not use a very thin tube with a slit down one side or SS foil to build the tube.It will allow you to disassemble your can and save your suppressor tube from the dip.

Probably because its patented and doesn't allow anyone else to use the idea.

I know thats prevented alot of people from doing that.

[rogerme]

I have cleaned mine many times using my soda blaster. Good as new very fast and no damage.

[Bendersquint]

I have cleaned mine many times using my soda blaster. Good as new very fast and no damage.

Walnut media works as well.

[srt-4_uk]

but if he cant get it apart in the first place, what good will a soda blaster, walnut media, or stainless media help?

[Bendersquint]

but if he cant get it apart in the first place, what good will a soda blaster, walnut media, or stainless media help?

Then he's toast. But the dip is a good way to upgrade to a new can if you can slip that by the wife since the other one is destroyed!

[Wallygator]

Have you tried soaking it in ATF first. The tranny fluid will not eat the aluminum and is high in detergents, might just be enough to get it apart easily.

[ranb]

Any K baffle can for a 22lr I make in the future will be cone/spacer or K baffle with a sleeve.

I tried to soak the 9mm and 22lr cans in Ed's Red (equal parts, ATF, mineral spirits, acetone and kerosene) but it did nothing for me. I even unscrewed the front end cap a bit to try and blast the baffles loose, they did not budge. The dip is the only thing that loosened the gunk enough so I could tap them out then give them a proper cleaning with a scrub pad/scraper or bead blaster.

I brought them to the range today to shoot them after cleaning, they are fine so far.

Ranb

[Capt. Link.]

Hey B do you have the patient numbers for the sparrow sleeve.A one piece vs two piece may not be covered and I know for a fact Norell has used a one piece sleeve for decades in there suppressors to allow the stack to be removed without damage to the suppressor tube. A use of a patented item is legal if it intended use is not the same as in the patient.

[Bendersquint]

Hey B do you have the patient numbers for the sparrow sleeve.A one piece vs two piece may not be covered and I know for a fact Norell has used a one piece sleeve for decades in there suppressors to allow the stack to be removed without damage to the suppressor tube. A use of a patented item is legal if it intended use is not the same as in the patient.

Doesn't matter if someone used them for 1000 years until its patented it can be done by anyone, once its patented noone can legally do it whether it be for your own personal use or for business use..

How would the intended use of the split clamshells not be to protect the outer tube of the silencer allowing the extraction of the baffles?

I can't find the patent number but its described in length here. http://22sparrow.com/?page=MPC-Technology

When I find the patent number I will let you know.

[ranb]

I shot my cans wet today, very wet. When I took them apart the gunk on the tube wall was muddy. The baffles slid right out without any tapping.


Rinsing them off left me with baffles that are clean on the edges, but caked with hardened gunk on the front. I am tempted to blast them with aluminum oxide but I think that might be a bit aggressive for aluminum. Perhaps with glass beads instead.

Ranb

[rogerme]

IF the can is sealed you can try to make a long nozzle. I have a friend with a old 70's 22 suppressor is does not have k baffles it has what is for the most part a spacer a washer a spacer and so on. We took a stainless tube about .20 od ( guessing) welded the end closed then drilled a hole through it just above the weld across the tube then we duct taped ( yea I know) that to the soda blaster nozzle. Then we got it running and just slid it in and out while twisting the suppressor ( insert joke here ) it did not do a perfect job but it did a very good one. I am not sure it would; work as well with a k baffle but it would clean at least do a bit.

[redtazdog]

Any K baffle can for a 22lr I make in the future will be cone/spacer or K baffle with a sleeve.

Ranb

.
Try K baffles with a built in sleeve like this



The Tube never gets dirty so the baffles always drop out easy
.

[ranb]

How thin is that sleeve? Is it a split sleeve?

Ranb

[Capt. Link.]

Has any one tried to put something like walnut shells mixed with Kroil or clp in the can then plug it and run it in a rock tumbler I bet that would bust up alot of the crud and should do no harm.

[Bendersquint]

Has any one tried to put something like walnut shells mixed with Kroil or clp in the can then plug it and run it in a rock tumbler I bet that would bust up alot of the crud and should do no harm.

You would have to have that rock tumbler spinning at Warp12 to get soggy walnut media to do anything inside a can.

[Capt. Link.]

It was a idea maybe lead shot then.I could just see this spinning at warp speed and it makes me laugh.B you know I hate to hear of a problem that can't be fixed.Pm sent.

[nice shot]

Im a little nervous now. I just bought a .22lr can and after seeing these pics and hearing about the horrors of cleaning it. . . What should I do?

Is there a link to a "this is the best way to clean your silencer" page?

FWIW, leadfree brand hand lotion s--t that they pass out on qual days will take the built up powder right off of the feed ramp on my P2000. I havent had a single issue with it and I've been doing it for 3.5 years, same gun, same barrel. . . Could this potentially work?

[Capt. Link.]

I use CLP every time I shoot and baffles wipe clean.The rub is aluminum components and dip.I love al but tend to shun it' use for other than 9mm and 45 cans.

[Bendersquint]

Im a little nervous now. I just bought a .22lr can and after seeing these pics and hearing about the horrors of cleaning it. . . What should I do?

Is there a link to a "this is the best way to clean your silencer" page?

FWIW, leadfree brand hand lotion s--t that they pass out on qual days will take the built up powder right off of the feed ramp on my P2000. I havent had a single issue with it and I've been doing it for 3.5 years, same gun, same barrel. . . Could this potentially work?

What 22lr can did you just buy?