Hi,

Chapter (3-I): Center Drilling the Baffles

Now, it’s about to Drill the Center holes. I like Holes, they are always a good source for a drink (water), food (roots & bugs) & fun (sex) …

We are Drilling the Center holes; Blast & Baffles. The last step is just to take the Center Drill to the origin for the next batch.

OK, I know there are better and more expensive Milling Attachments out there (I want to be in the cheap side) but my goal is to keep the Lathe setup when moving to the Drill Press. I can’t do the whole Drilling process on the attachment due to vibrations.

Some Pics follow. Monkeys are fun as long as they are quiet.

Next, Chapter 3 (II): Center Drilling the Baffles (Up)

Paul

I'll also point out that you have quite the collection of porcelain animals... Touching... Very touching.

Are you open to criticism ?

Hi,

Wolf: Yes, I’m open to criticism. All I ask is for respect, no s--t.

Paul

You use a center drill

thats a tool inteded for drilling the hole for the center

not hard work

i as many others HAVE used (sinned) it for spotdrilling

but you take it way to far

too easy to break the tip of

the tip has to be run at nigh rpm ,and the rest at lower rpms , thats not possible at the same time , so its run on the low rpms

its a shame to have come so far as you are in your set up ,, and then have a broken tip sticking in the core

use a spot drill . then you can even go the whole way through , its MUCH more robust

the same goes for starting a hole

Hi,

Yes, I know what you mean. I do not have a factory Milling Attachment just a Homemade Vise one. It chatters (vibrates) a lot for tools > 6 mm and/or depth > 10 mm.

What I’m doing is just drill center the holes to later on transfer to the Drill Press for finishing. It works (by now) and the center drill is in good conditions.

Find another Pic, tool and Vise ready to transfer to the Drill Press.

Paul

What you just did describe IS spot drilling

use a spot drill for that , better safer and cheaper in the long run

center is is for center drilling nothing else (but we all sin from time to time )

Hi,

Thanks Wolf, i understand (I’m not a machinist at all).

My main concern is how to recover the “centers” (for all the holes) once I move from the Lathe to the Drill Press for the final holing. I’m not moving the part in the Vise (using the same one just removing the tool holder) so using the same center drill (inserted in the hole) I just need to move the drill chuck to the right position, fasten, change the drill and press on.

I’ll take a Pic of what I mean and post.

I’m now working on having little chatter on the drill press.

Paul

Is this okay to use on .308 wm?

Paul, one tip from a seasoned machinist:

When i run a center drill, i tend to run it on high rpm´s according to the small diameter, (but low feed, but mostly because it´s HSS as opposed to my carbide tools) , but i only drill deep enough so the small dia. tip is entirely in the metal, and then a wee bit more, like .03-.05 or so. Just to get a tiny chamfer on the center.

The sturdiness of your overall setup will dictate how high you can go with the rpm´s before you get chatter, so don´t take it as gospel. (the 180.000$ CNC setup i work on, obviously will allow for higher rpm´s and feeds before problems arise because of it´s inherent sturdiness)

You will find back into that tiny center with the same center drill just as well once you switch to the drillpress, as in the deep holes you made, but your tool will last way longer and is less prone to break the tip! Tighten down the vice once you found your zero and let the drillbit do all the hard work, it´s better suited for it. Threat your tools well, and they will threat you well.

Hope this helps, good luck with your build!

Gotta like a man that simply will do with what´s on hand and overcome any obstacles thrown in your way, kudos!

Is this okay to use on .308 wm?

It´s for a .22 i think, i would not use aluminium on a full blown centerfire rifle cartridge like .308 and there are better baffle designs for a .308 available.

ghostdog662 wrote:Is this okay to use on .308 wm?

Hi,

Sure you can !

1) Have the Form 1 in hand
2) Buy the metals and all related stuff
3) Build the Can
4) Mount the Can in your Gun
5) Turn on the Video Recorder (not too close, please)
6) Aim to your mouth (Don’t eat it too much, 4 inches is enough)
7) Pull the trigger

Now, you have a perfect .308 WidowMaker shot. Leave a letter for your neighbors to post the Video in YourTube.



Paul

Hi,

TinCanMan: Thanks a lot for you wise, technical, polite and valuable advice. It’s a lesson most of us must learn.

I’m still working on tighten down the vice. Centers are OK but still having chattering issues (testing on another round bar).

Let me share a secret with you: It’s really frustrating not having budget or money issues but not being able to access good tools due to availability.

Thanks,

Paul

Why open a new thread for each segment of the build Just a tad annoying. It kinda Looks like Mickey Mouse Will you require permission from Disney for the Loony Toons can. Now before you Panties get all twisted and bound in the crack of your Ass I'm Joking. Someone had to do it. But seriously why not just do it in one thread? For sure could open up the dead space areas a bit more for extra volume. Was there a purpose for setting all the holes drilled exactly the same pattern. rather then rotating the paterns to inter lock ?
What Cal range is this design gonna work for?
Joe

Hi,

F you !, just kidding you know …

One thread is a mess for 8 or 10 different Chapters: Lot of Pics and Vids so easy to get lost. This way is also more selective: you like this, get in; you don’t just skip.

Rotating patterns are good as long as your Core OD fits your Tube ID. If you have a floating Core (like this one) there is no significant difference.

Anyway, I’m building this one not to have a good Suppressor but just to compare with my COMSOL models using different types of materials for the Tube.

Drill press is no longer chattering so I should start drilling tomorrow (caps are already made).

Paul


Paul

No need for offensive language and yet it still makes no sense to make so many threads on the same item. If you want folks to follow what your doing try and answer questions. What happen with the last set of holes on the end of the can I see they are not as your drawing shows. Still looks like Mikey Mouse with a wad of chew in his Jaw. Waiting to see the next installment of the Loony Toons Can.

Joe

epicdoom wrote: ... Now before you Panties get all twisted and bound in the crack of your Ass I'm Joking. Someone had to do it. But seriously ...

So, you like joking others but you do not accept others joking you, right ?

Don’t read my Posts like I do with yours (if any …). It’s that simple, that means freedom of choice.

Paul

joking I'm totaly fine with name calling however I'm not. I'm trying to learn stuff so I look at what your doing your the bestest Can maker be it for 30cal, 22, 50cal, Campbells, Delmonte, 9MM, Coke, Pepsi, 44mag and last but not lease Trash Can.


Joe

Good to know. Let us know when you have something to show.

I think the sad part is nobody is going to realistically make a suppressor this way. If you want to make a monocore you need to use a rigid jig to hold your work piece as it starts to lose its strength and cut it in a mill. Keep using those center drills too.

I will do that Paul and I'll take some pictures of the process using the rite tools for the Job as well. But only because I got it like that. Just waiting on my form1 to return. I am a bit confused By this statement you posted (I’m building this one not to have a good Suppressor but just to compare with my COMSOL models using different types of materials for the Tube.) can you explain this a bit. If I'm to build a good can I need good solid answers Please if you dont mind.