Yes i would use the adapter/mount as a guide. You have no idea what the thread spec is on the mount. If you not making things to sell then its better to have a good fit rather than meeting a thread spec

I can only speak from my 1 build experience.

If running subs I would clean it every time you shoot which means thread it.

I know at least 1 other person besides me that had to beat the baffles out of his can after 2 range trips

Absolutely beautiful job on the baffles and machining for the booster.

Why didnt you clean up the outside of the tube a little?

From your work on the baffles I think you have the ability.

In my limited experience (1 suppressor build under my belt) I would not do this. It would be difficult not impossible to ensure the threads cut on the muzzle attachment on the kaK brake are in the same plane as the threads you are going to cut in the end of the KAK Any update/change in the suppresso...

Well i figured it out.

A little googling on my part and multiple threads, some on this forum came up.

The answer at least on this forum is NO. As a form 1 builder you cannot have multiple endcaps, so I will have to modify my design.

I guess its been asked here so often people are tired of replying

I want to build a reflex can like a OPS Inc that is on the Mk12 mod 0

I also want to be able to use it on my SBR with a 12" barrel. To do that i would have 2 seperate endcaps to mount the can.


Would the endcap be considered another suppressor.

How to you keep the tube from warping?

I would be interested in you tig welding settings

I built one from scratch, K baffle for a 45ACP SBR. Works pretty well for 9mm and 300 black as well. Finished it in May of last year. Its a heavy sucker all stainless. This board was a great help I am in the planning stages now for a reflex for a M12 Mod 0 clone .223 and one for 22 rimfire not sure ...

For my next F1 I would like to build a .223 can

This will go on a MK18 copy. 12" barrel

I will only be shooting supers out of it.

Stainless or Titanium tube. Stainless internals 7" long

Looking for advice on tube material, wall thickness, baffle type and number.

Thanks to everyone here who helped me I have my first Form1 suppressor done Started out as stainless steel tubing and barstock 8 inch 1.5 diameter 45 ACP A little under .060 in thickness weight is aroud 28 oz which I know is heavy but I can live with it. 7 K baffles After engraving at Tarheel I sand...

Im no expert on building suppressors but a few suggestions Get yourself a copy of the machineries handbook old copies are fine the info doesnt change mine is from 1958 It will have all the info you need about everthing to do with threading and about 1000 more machining operations. Become familiar wi...

Does the length of the baffle matter? I can make like you suggest with a total length of .7 inches

Does it matter if I use a 60 degree baffle.

.080 sounded pretty thick for stainless How thick do i make the bottom does that matter

I have my tubes done and have cut my first baffle 45 acp rifle can coaxial Also firing 9mm and 300 BO I noticed right away that there is a long straight section inside the baffle which I read here is not good. My baffle is 1.050 inches long After doing some drawing and measuring I have determined th...

Thanks for the links and info I’m a little confused as to how to use the formula The psi from a 45 acp is going to be different at the muzzle, vs inside the case when fired. How do I determine that number? I have several different kinds on anti seize is one better for cans I have automotive and moly...

Thanks Capt.

I have the inner tubes threaded 28tpi I took the id out to .127 from .125 so I have much to work with.

It’s not Dom tubing more like seamless

Is there a hoop strength formula?

The highest pressure would be 300 BO supersonic

I got my stamp finally and got the materials I am building a can for a 45ACP AR rifle. It will also be used for 9mm and 300 BO I am making a coaxial Here is what I have so far https://i.imgur.com/lhRrAXO.jpg All stainless The inner tube is .110 thick and weighs 15 oz 1.25 inner dia The end caps weig...

Got the stamp on Tuesday I’m buying stock on Monday

It’s my understanding that I will bore and thread the end cap and thread for the internal tube since I am building a coaxial

Makes sense, Since im going to swap the can onto 3 different uppers I will need to make a mount that i can install on all 3 uppers. Any ideas for the internal threads for the endcap? My biggest caliber is 45acp What set of threads on the endcap do i do first? Internal threads for installing it then ...

I have a rotary table i can mount a milling vice on, and i have several small milling vices. By a jig, do you mean a square Al block with a circle cut out the same size as the baffle that can hold a baffle? I can certainly make one. It seems like I should make it out of stainless so I will. I will j...

I cant wait to get started (but i will because i dont want to go to prison) My fingerprints should be at the BATFE tomorrow I have some of the material ordered and am sourcing the rest. End pieces are ordered. I will use Metals supermarket for the dom tubing Ebay is the cheapest i have found 17-4 st...

Well if I can find a good print for a K I will do that one then. When I said M I was thinking of the 2 pieces cone with a spacing shoulder. That would definetly be easier to build. I plane on making the outer sleeve out of 4130 maybe the inner one as well. Do the baffles need to be made from stainle...

That design looks good, hopefully I have the skill to pull it off

I will go with the M baffle.

Is the internal cone usually cut with a countersink?

I have watched videos where a countersink was used.

How many M baffles can I get in a 8” can?

I will build whatever has the most sound reduction coaxial sounds good, Is there a design out there you reccomend. I read K baffles are the best for subsconic which is what I will shoot in the 45 and 9mm. I also read they are the hardest to do properly I was thinking about the Omega baffle if I coul...

Thanks for the reply. I dont really have anything against Ti, I have heard its hard to machine and expensive. My form 1 was for an 8" length can. I planned on a 1.5 inch diameter but i can make it a larger if thats better. Sounds like i will need a mount for each caliber I had read that as the ...

Hello, first post Im a long time lurker. I finally sent in my 1st Form 1 request yesterday so im gathering some info about materials and such. I have a lathe (grizzly 12-36) and bridgeport mill. I would call myself an advanced beginner when it comes to machining. My first can will be a fixed mount o...