Just curious for information and knowledge mostly, but what are the pros and cons of integral bolt action centerfires? specifically around the .308 type cartridges'. I'm assuming that is a whole 'nuther animal from a screw on can.

I'm kind of disappointed with my intergral 10/22. Yeah its quiet, accuracy isn't very good, it was freaking expensive and now I know I would have a better 10/22 if I went with a 16 inch barrel and decent screw on silencer. Interesting, I would love to know more about it. was it a form 1 build, if s...

I really like the 10/22 just from the standpoint of the easy to swap barrels. The magazines for the 10/22 are a big plus too. Honestly I wish I had one of the straight pull actions using the 10/22.

One of my upcoming stamps is going to be for a .22. I had always sorta planned to do an integral on a 10/22. I've already got the rifle and currently have a .920 barrel I was going to use to make the integral based very closely on this integral by CMV http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?...

the problem is the amount of heat required to melt the rod with a stick welder puts so much heat into the part. large thick parts are ok with it, thin small parts warp. TIG allows pinpoint arc placement and a much smaller and controlled heat affected zone.

You'd know that indicating it in 4-jaw. Gets down to almost no runout, move dial indicator back on piece a few inches and now there's runout. If no matter what there's runout when measuring a few inches apart your stock is out of round. If you have the needle type dial indicator vs the plunger type...

How do I check the tube to see if it is 'right'. If i had to bet that's where I would wager the concentricity is off, I had to thread it in the 4 jaw with a steady rest.

I did wonder if shooting through an empty tube would have any effect on the bullet. Since the bullet never outruns the gas in the singe chamber a tube with no baffles creates, would it push the bullet at all?

The endcap had no damage. just a brass kiss I found after the bullets were hitting a foot low at 25 yds. I opened the endcap bore to .422 and now all is good

an 11/32" aircraft extension drill will give you a close approximation w/o buying drill rod. You did all these with your 4 jaw chuck and indicated the work every time? Also, did you torque the bejeezus out of both caps? I would say you threaded an end with too much runout, have an [both?] endc...

As I posted previously, I'm working on a 9mm can for a Glock AR SBR. I have a Griffen style taper mount I made from 17-4 for the brake mount. I made the endcaps and threaded the tube myself. This afternoon I finished the distal end cap. I threaded it all together and put it on the AR just to shoot i...

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions, I got it done. As is not uncommon, I ended up doing it differently than was suggested here. https://i.imgur.com/ih4xXo5.jpg?2 https://i.imgur.com/dsZEP4A.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3EdugG5.jpg I ended up turning and threading the exterior threads first so I c...

I'm making everything. But I don't have thread wires Do have a machinist handbook? Check what wire goes to the thread pitch and go to a music shop and buy piano wire in that size. Honestly, you should have a set of wires. They're dirt cheap and very useful. I'd make the tube first, threading both e...

Are you making the tube or buying? If making, I'd do it like this: (making end cap mount first) Part will be made as if chuck was tube (you'll be able to stick QD device into part properly) Profile and thread OD (using wires to confirm thread sizing) Bore interior to female thread Dmin Cut taper (a...

Basically i need to make this and keep it concentric:

I will be making a threaded end cap, with a taper for attachment. I have a Griffen style taper muzzle brake, I need to make the near end cap with a internal threads and internal taper for the brake, and external threads for the tube. I'm thinking profile the threads for the tube, and bore the intern...

Yes and no. If the bore is straight, it'll be fine. Lots of bores arent perfectly straight. Ive done it on a very short barrel. It works but isnt a best practice. n't do it if the plan is for running suppressed. snip Gives you an idea how they are made. Like Ecco said, protect the barrel from the s...

ECCO Machine wrote: ↑Sun Mar 01, 2020 10:39 am Yup

Thank you sir. With that configuration, have you found blast chamber to be an issue with first round pop? I'm assuming putting the face of the blast baffle about 1/4-3/8" off the muzzle.

I played with quite a few K baffle designs in pistol cans. Ultimately, tightly spaced double radius clipped 60° cones outperformed all the K baffle designs. I was actually happy about that, because even though Ks are more material efficient, I can make cones in about 1/3 the time, including the ind...

I'm really torn ..... I have a stamp for a 9mm can that will live on my Glock lower AR SBR. I keep going back and forth between 60* cones and stuffing as many as I can in a tube, and making K's. My plan is either 1.625" or 1.5" OD. Im not trying for as short as possible, but rather just lo...

I just saw a blurb about registration for the firearms industry being moved from under the Trade department to the Commerce department. From what I read, there will no longer be a requirement for manufacturers to register and pay ITAR fees. Just wondering if that includes suppressor manufacturers.

It doesn't get full travel since it is longer than standard. Im pretty sure it doesnt make up a lot of momentum with the short travel

Just to give an update, I turned a buffer from CRS. Ended up about 5" long, weighs 9.2oz. Installed and tested with WWB 147gr. Build is a NFA Glock mag lower, 5.5" 9mm barrel, using a standard mil-spec buffer tube and standard carbine spring. Total weight of bolt/carrier and buffer is righ...

I know some here have used some 416ss, and would like to know what it is like to machine and use for baffles. I'm considering 416 baffles for a 9mm PCC build that might also see both sub and super 300Blkout. What I have found is in the annealed state. Just wondering what I am getting into.

Also go over to Hobby Machinist site. Lots of good information and help there.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/forums/ ... -here.208/