Integral 308 bolt action

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mr fixit
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Integral 308 bolt action

Post by mr fixit »

I'm trying to figure out how I can make this work, and work as well as possible. I'm planning on a 1.5" .065" wall tube over the barrel, about 26" overall. What I'm thinking is to cut a standard sporter weight barrel in .308 to 16" and thread. To the barrel threads I would mount a dedicated brake with a 1.37"OD baffle to act as support for the tube to slide over back to the receiver. At the receiver make a small collar to go over the shank of the barrel, this collar would be mounted to the barrel, and threaded on the OD so the tube will screw onto it securing the tube. In front of the brake use a stack of clipped cone baffles with the endcap tightening down against the stack. This would put the stack and barrel under compression.

I'm not sure if the threads at the receiver are enough to secure it all.

My second thought is the 16" barrel threaded, and the collar just a press fit against a shoulder at the receiver. For baffles either a stack of cones welded as in a tubeless can design, or a monocore. Either the stack or the monocore would be welded to the brake and the distal end threaded for a cap to tighten against. This would hold the barrel and stack in tension.

I know Ecco has stated he has tested and no monocore can equal cone baffles in the same length. To me the key question is "same length". I wonder would a 10" monocore be enough to overcome the inefficiency vs say a 8" stack of cones?

Either way, this really wouldn't be a true integral, but rather a large reflex design. I am assuming it's sort of a small distinction in this case. I don't want to go shorter than 16" length of the barrel, and really don't want to port it and loose any of what's left at 16". In my estimation the brake dumping into the reflex area would make up for the lack of porting. I believe I can make the baffles or monocore withstand the effects of a non-ported .308.

If threading the tube to the barrel shank isn't secure enough, I will have an obstacle to overcome with either a welded stack of cones or a monocore. If it's a welded stack of cones, I will have to make fixtures for welding the cones together and keeping the bore true and the exterior so it will fit inside the tube.

If I have to make a monocore, the obstacle will be first to settle on a design that can be reasonably built on a manual mill and that is effective.

The goals for this are to use on a Howa .308 bolt gun for hunting, some target shooting. And of course the CDI factor.

As always, thoughts and opinions are solicited.

EDITED TO ADD: I would love for this to work with both supers and subs.
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Capt. Link.
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Re: Integral 308 bolt action

Post by Capt. Link. »

What you want is not hard to do but requires a lathe. I would be happy to detail a hi-volume integral that should drive the proverbial tack.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
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mr fixit
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Re: Integral 308 bolt action

Post by mr fixit »

Capt. Link. wrote: Thu Nov 24, 2022 6:44 pm What you want is not hard to do but requires a lathe. I would be happy to detail a hi-volume integral that should drive the proverbial tack.
I have a 12" Logan lathe, as well as a round column 8x28 milling machine, and in the not too distant future will complete my rebuild of my Tiawan Bridgport 9x42 clone. Do tell good Captain.
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Capt. Link.
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Re: Integral 308 bolt action

Post by Capt. Link. »

This is not to difficult:
Reduce a area just ahead of the receiver on the barrel to press fit a flange to accept the 1.500x.065 tube. Thin the barrel forward of the flange. This can be a taper or a straight .625 ending with a 5/8x24 muzzle.

Modify the monocore so one end is 5/8x24 and the other end has six tapped hole in the end around its periphery. A baffle type suppressor can also be used as long as the mods are the same.

Build a muzzle cap with six holes to match the "suppressor" and fit the tube.

Press on the first flange then screw on the suppressor with lock-tight. Slide the tube on then the muzzle cap.

When you go to the range you use a torque wrench to tighten the muzzle screws until the groups shrink in size.

Doing it this way the barrel is held under tension. This allows you to tune out harmonics of the thin barrel so it acts as its a heavy taper. You end up with a massive volume as well.

I can walk you through any points call or write.
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
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