5.56mm Sealed Can Build - Ongoing - UPDATE 10/6/2017

[T-Rex]

Update in OP

[garredondojr]

thats pretty cool that you built yourself your own orbital rig. kind of late now but from my experience welding stainless tubing I would have backpurged when welding. When I welded turbo manifolds the inside would burn the chromium out of the metal (grey porus weld due to the presence of O2)

now where are the test shot vids?

[T-Rex]

Take a look at the plans I posted. You will see that, while it is welded as a butt joint, it is a lap, behind, and not exposed to atmosphere. During the test welds, I had to purposely overheat the joint to create any sugaring. I did it just to know at what point it would start to show. It was far beyond the needed amperage for a full penetration weld.

A test vid will surely be posted, once completed. Thanks for looking

[jnjproto]

Where did you get your welding rod, and is it 630?

[T-Rex]

The guys in the shop will go right to the local welding supply. I do as little business as I can with them. They act as if I'm wasting their time, spending money in their store. So, I usually order from Bakersgas.com. Great prices and shipping, and they have small quantities of mostly everything.

I didn't use any filler at all. I had 10 welds, 8 being under .065 and the other 2 around .08. In reality, I was pretty much welding thin wall tubing, with a backer. No filler needed. But, yes, I would have used 630 and it is sitting next to the welder.

[daviscustom]

Sweet little setup you have going there with the lathe/live tooling. Just looking at your welding fixture and was wondering what tig welder you are using???....is it a small 110v home welder, or something heavy duty? I have been kickng around the idea of getting a small tig for several years just for this sort of work.

Looking forward to seeing some test videos. I have been looking over Rusty's suggestions for a little while and am interested to see how this works out for you.

[T-Rex]

Thank you, everyone, for your positive comments. I'm a designer by trade and try to always be learning. I taught myself machining and it sure has come in handy . The welder is a Lincoln Precision 225 and not a small machine. If you need a nice Tig machine, it will surely do the job. However, you're probably into the $3k+ range, once you consider cooler, tank/gas, consumables, and a nice torch.

I did a impromptu test firing this afternoon. I was in a haste and didn't have time to document anything. I'll try and come back to it later. Anyway, 3 shots w/ earpro followed by 47 shots w/o. Absolutely no ear ringing and the sound was reflecting off my sunroom windows. I usually shoot on my range, but, like I said, I was in a rush. If I were to guess a POI shift, I'd say 1-2" high at 25m. I saw no appreciable right or left deviation.

Brass has moved from 3:30 to 1:00-1:30 so I'm definitely getting a bit more gas, but this was to be expected. The rifle has a Superlative Arms piston and dialing in the gas will not be a problem. The POI rise might be attributed to this, we'll know more later.

Stay tuned. I may have a reflex 22lr design done by the end of next week. It's for one of my AR's and incorporates some nice features.

[daviscustom]

Sounds very promising! Looking forward to seeing finished pics and video in action. Very nice work indeed.

[garredondojr]

Take a look at the plans I posted. You will see that, while it is welded as a butt joint, it is a lap, behind, and not exposed to atmosphere. During the test welds, I had to purposely overheat the joint to create any sugaring. I did it just to know at what point it would start to show. It was far beyond the needed amperage for a full penetration weld.

A test vid will surely be posted, once completed. Thanks for looking

I stand corrected. I did overlook that. nice build and looking forward to the vid.

[missedit]

subscribed.....

I have been eyeballing the SIG supressors and really like that design! Winter project coming up for the pile of F1's I have.

Nice work!

[garredondojr]

any vids yet t-rex?

whats your take on the DHC clip? i'm considering going this route or the step clip like curtis tactical.

[T-Rex]

any vids yet t-rex?
whats your take on the DHC clip? i'm considering going this route or the step clip like curtis tactical.

I apologize for not uploading a video, I know I promised. I don't own a true video camera, only cell phones, and didn't want any clipping to distort the basis for the video. I think a coworker has a HD camera w/ good mic, I'll try to borrow.

The can performs exceptionally, really. I can't say what feature is to thank, but I wouldn't hesitate to make a duplicate. I can't shoot 22lr w/o earpro or a silencer, but I can fire SS109 and XM855 through this w/o earpro and w/o issue. Also, I've noticed less noise complaints, from the neighbors, with the can attached.

I've put almost 1k rounds through it already and no complaints (from the wife, neighbor, or other).
I put it on my Volquartsen 10/22 and it was ridiculously quiet.

Have I applied the intended Gunkote? No, but that's another story

[garredondojr]

thanks for the update. so since we got you on the line. what about that reflex 22lr suppressor

[T-Rex]

thanks for the update. so since we got you on the line. what about that reflex 22lr suppressor

Man, you're unrelenting (thx for keeping me honest )
It performs better than I expected.
I can't tell a difference w/ or w/o the copper Chore-Boy, but the reflex portion can be distinguished by ear.
I've used polyurethane wipe material, from 40-90A, and get crap results. My wipe cutter was made true on a lathe, so I know it's centered, and I've tried holes from .125-.213. @25m my groups open to about 12". Yes, it's quieter, but what's the point?

I'm now working on getting the Atchison style bolt to quiet down. It's really the only thing you hear and it's not pleasing. The acetal collar and bolt stop only help a bit. I've gained info about using a ball bearing detent as a way to retard bolt timing. Essentially delaying unlock and return timing. Until I get this mod done I can't say how quiet this platform can be, but, for now, the suppressor design is sound.

Don't ask about the finish

[garredondojr]

was there ever a build thread for the reflex can?

[T-Rex]

was there ever a build thread for the reflex can?

It's lacking some info as well as clipping and the wipe punch, but can be found here. I'll try to remember and update.

[boltfluter]

Those are some beautiful welds. Well done.

Paul

[Hannibalbarca]

Did you think about doing an inconel or stellite blast baffle(s)?
Maybe doing a different baffle design like that of the griffin suppressors?
Some ideas for a future project perhaps.

[T-Rex]

Did you think about doing an inconel or stellite blast baffle(s)?
Maybe doing a different baffle design like that of the griffin suppressors?
Some ideas for a future project perhaps.

No need for Inconel or Stelite in my build. It lives on a single rifle and I don't see it being worn out, at least nowhere in the near future. 17-4SS isn't fragile material.

As far as I'm aware, Griffin uses a typical cone w/ their proprietary clipping, for centerfire. I couldn't say whether their's would be better, but my design is definitely not lacking.

If I needed to do it again, honestly, I wouldn't change a thing. Not because I think it's perfect, but because it works so well I couldn't narrow down a single feature worth changing, and possibly being left with less reduction.

My current stock of removable cans fit my needs. I have about a half dozen forms waiting to be made, all integral designs.

[doubloon]

Doesn't want to make a suppressor from unobtanium ... what a poser.



Impressive work, some classic construction techniques there.

[fishman]

I have about a half dozen forms waiting to be made, all integral designs.

well get going! The completed build thread isn't going to populate itself.

[T-Rex]

I have about a half dozen forms waiting to be made, all integral designs.

well get going! The completed build thread isn't going to populate itself.

Tell me about it. To be honest, I'm not sure which one I want to start with.
I think I might be doing this one:

30cal compact sub rifle

Turning this:


Into this:


Was going to do K's, but I think I may copy the baffles from my reflex 22 design.
A 10" bbl, with bleed chamber, followed by a bunch of clipped cones:


Current rifle just uses an Octane 45 for the can. I get about 4" groups @100yds and that's with using polyfill in the case. The integral design will allow me to use a different powder and fill the case more. I think groups should shrink right up. It's super quiet now and only see it getting husher. Night time shooting is great with it.

[Walkintall_2]

It's been a while since a build was posted so I thought it was a good time to share. I have a stack of Form 1's sitting around and just started getting to them. I really wanted to get this 5.56mm can going first, but it was too time consuming on my smaller machine and I had another lathe to restore. Earlier last year, I helped a friend's widow and, for my efforts, was bequeathed a 1947 South Bend 9A. Over the winter, I stripped it down and built it back up. Please, don't bother commenting on the finish. I dare not destroy the beauty of this piece of American history and, to tell you the truth, much prefer its worn appearance to a fresh coat of color. Here's a pic of my "new" larger lathe. Taken after testing VFD/Motor rotation so many pieces are not in the pic.



I upgraded the motor to a new 3ph Baldor and complemented it with a Teco VFD. I've been in a haste and am currently running a suicide cord, to an outlet in my shop, until I tie into the panel. There's a new ER16 CNC spindle waiting for me to wire up and make a mount, for live tooling. Everything will be controlled from a local, user panel, when I get around to it.

The first thing I did on the lathe



Chopping a 16" barrel to 10"ish and threading.

So, onto the suppressor.
All parts are 17-4SS, cut in Cond A, and will be heat treated post-weld.
This is for my "go-to" carbine (for the 10"bbl). The OD has 3 steps, getting smaller towards the distal cap, so it kinda looks odd in the pic.







Muzzle device still needs porting.
All baffles (8) ready for clipping (sans blast baffle) and porting (4 per baffle, 6 for blast)
I was originally going to use a traditional "half clip", but have decided to go with the "Dual Hybrid Clip" pioneered from a gentlemen named Rusty, on the Form1 boards.



After the porting and clipping, parts will be cleaned, baked, cleaned, welded, passivated, heat treated (H900), bead blasted, and coated in Socom Black

I will update the OP as the project progresses.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Update 8/19/17<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

I know this is a silencer build thread, but I know there are a few who are interested in the building aspect a bit more than the final product. Being such, I thought I'd keep the machinery process documented as well.

Since I've only just restored and started using this lathe, things need to be tweaked and added to my liking. One of these things is a live tool spindle. I bought a water cooled, 1.5kW, 220v, CNC spindle. It came w/ a mount and VFD, and I already own a small pump for it. The following pics are of milling the Al mounting piece, to fix in the AXA tool holder, drilling the screw holes, and aligning the spindle before marking, drilling, and tapping the holes for its mount.







>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Update 9/1/2017<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Sorry for the delay, a bit of life got in the way . That and the fact that I ordered cutters at 3 in the morning and got 3/32 instead of 3/16, doh!

Here are the baffles being clipped


All Clipped and Blast Baffle ported (Baffle #2 is fixed in the lathe)


Baffle #2 getting ready for porting


Yes, I know the bit is hanging out there, but it was the only way to get a full penetration drill.

Sorry about the Dykem; I know it doesn't make for the best pics. I'm using it to keep a layout line, which can be seen in the last pic (on the baffle OD). I'm leaving some file marks where the adjacent pieces will mate and the weld will make them disappear. This will keep All the clips and ports aligned, with the blast ports offset 11.25deg.

I received a lot of IMs, from people requesting dimensions and such. I don't mind divulging this info, but, please, give me a chance to get these parts made. After which, I'll post "As Built" drawings.

On another note, here's an update of my Spindle. It works fantastic; much better than my old setup. You can see the orange pc fan I had to rig up to help keep temps down (dis sum bitch gets HOT ). The spindle is water cooled, but I didn't get any tubing to connect it to my pump. This will be remedied soon.



No, that is not some new anodizing process, which makes Al have a wood finish, the indexing plate is made of Luan/Plywood. I haven't gotten around to making a real plate and this was serving as a template. It works phenomenal. Is it making me think twice about one made of metal? Yes! They're too easy to make and I'll see how it's held-up after 36 port holes, 3 angle changes per baffle clip, and cutting the muzzle device. My other lathe is scheduled to depart next week (was SPF before I even posted to Craigslist). So I'll be looking to get a mill and might just wait to make my plates. If anyone is curious, I'm in-between a G0704 and the LMS 3909. I know the G0704 is a bit "better", but costs $400 more than the 3909 and would need another $400 to upgrade to the belt drive. I figure I don't need a mill for heavy purposes and the $800 might serve better going towards a vise, clamps, cutters, etc.

Anyway, thanks for staying tuned and, if the weekend cooperates, I should have an update on finished parts soon.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Update 9/2/2017<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Parts were finished, cleaned, baked, degreased, and are now ready for welding. I went with 8 ports in the blast baffle, instead of the planned 6. I was going to put a 1/4" hole in the MB, 90deg from the 5/16" slit. Once I saw the slit, I figured it was open enough and the bit of extra material would be good for the 10"bbl.



Down the stack. The hybrid clip looks promising and was easy to cut. Although rusty recommends a slotting saw, for the flats, I used a 3/8" end mill. Takes longer than a traditional clip or scoop, but realistically was about 4min/baffle. That includes the bit change and indexing.



I'm putting a little rig together for welding. Once that's done, I should be good to weld.

Link to As Built pdf.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Update 10/6/2017<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Got to welding the suppressor together today. Not sure I'm going to deal w/ heat treating (so anxious to shoot it ).

W/o further ado, welding porn

Test welds, to verify settings and penetration.




Welding rig



First couple welds


Welding complete


Wire wheel and approved stamp


My scale has it coming in at 16.6oz
A video can be found here, of the welding process. Let me know if the video fails to load. Youtube was taking forever to process it.

I still would like to passivate post-weld, even if I don't heat treat.
Will be sand blasted and coated (when I get to it)

That's a nice old lathe! Lucky you to get it. One can really appreciate an old tool that's had years of experience and you did right not giving it a new coat of paint. It's got history so let it shine thru. Gotta love a machine that's 70+ years old and still going strong!

[AMGtuned]

This thread has some names I was happy to see again! @T-rex @JohnA @sergeant @hawkstand

I'm missing the form1 board already!

Great build OP. I used a lot of input from your posts elsewhere, along with some solid advice from Ecco, to build my first short can for a short rifle. Could not be happier.

[3strucking]

Where did everyone go? This used to be a very active place.