Suppressed AR and dirty 223: how often to clean and what lube?

[db0]

I had some FTEs the other day and one of the times the spent case was stuck pretty tightly in the chamber. I had to apply significant pressure to the charging handle to get the bolt to open and eject the case. The case looked normal when i inspected it. This was the point that I realized I haven't cleaned the gun in a long time, and when i pulled the BCG and found that it was bone dry.

How often do you clean a suppressed 223 AR that runs dirty steel cased ammo (Wolf)? I'd also like to hear recommendations on what grease/lube to apply at friction points for my particular scenario.

Right now I'm using latex gloves to spread a decent amount of CLP on the bolt (except for the bolt face), carrier group, charging handle, and the inside of the upper, but I'm concerned how dry the gun was... like the CLP had evaporated.

I've read a number of AR cleaning/lube threads, but none about whats best for running suppressed dirty steel cased 223. Please refrain from commenting if you don't run suppressed 223/556 in a DI AR.

[BlogSarge]

I probably clean mine more than needed. I usually do so every few hundred rounds.

I clean with whatever solvent is handy. Then lube with Frog Lube, CLP, Slip 2000, Amsoil gun lube or whatever is handy. Lately I'm using NiBX BCGs and find them easier to clean.

I meet most of your criteria. I have an 11.5 inch with an SDN-6 on the end. I plink with whatever ammo I have, but haven't done the steel stuff yet.

I think that for the most part the regularity of cleaning is more important than the specific liquids.

I hope this helps.

[Ramius]

If I shoot suppressed, I clean the gun when I'm off the range. It can be 5 rounds, it can be 1200 rounds. If I'm shooting extended periods (like the 1200 round day), I'll lube the gun every 400 - 500 rounds. That's just what I do.

I do not use steel cased ammo.

I use Mobil 1 for lube.

[poikilotrm]

I had some FTEs the other day and one of the times the spent case was stuck pretty tightly in the chamber. I had to apply significant pressure to the charging handle to get the bolt to open and eject the case. The case looked normal when i inspected it. This was the point that I realized I haven't cleaned the gun in a long time, and when i pulled the BCG and found that it was bone dry.

Do a scrupulous cleaning of the bolt and extractor. If you are having a problem pulling the handle you may have damaged the extractor pin. Examine it closely, and buy some spare parts. If it breaks you can fix the problem in a moment at the range.

I tend to use Rem Oil, AKA CLP, and it seems to work fine. I like to spray my bolt and bolt carrier before operation every time for lube, and to also act as a solvent for the mounds of crapola the silencer will be leaving in the upper and bolt. Think of it is a pre-cleaning prep solvent.

How often do you clean a suppressed 223 AR that runs dirty steel cased ammo (Wolf)? I'd also like to hear recommendations on what grease/lube to apply at friction points for my particular scenario.

Steel Wolf ammo caused three breakages for me. I will never run that stuff again. It is filthy and damages the internals and leads to premature chamber wear.

Right now I'm using latex gloves to spread a decent amount of CLP on the bolt (except for the bolt face), carrier group, charging handle, and the inside of the upper, but I'm concerned how dry the gun was... like the CLP had evaporated.

Get a spray can. Problem solved.

I've read a number of AR cleaning/lube threads, but none about whats best for running suppressed dirty steel cased 223. Please refrain from commenting if you don't run suppressed 223/556 in a DI AR.

The best way to avoid fixing a problem is to avoid the problem in the first place. Get some IMI M193 and never look back. It is what you should be running anyway.

Edited to add: Get some spray solvent too. A can of that stuff and you won't hate cleaning nearly so much.

[db0]

How often do you clean a suppressed 223 AR that runs dirty steel cased ammo (Wolf)? I'd also like to hear recommendations on what grease/lube to apply at friction points for my particular scenario.

Steel Wolf ammo caused three breakages for me. I will never run that stuff again. It is filthy and damages the internals and leads to premature chamber wear.

What breakages did you experience?

Also, regarding premature chamber wear, Wolf steel is .22 a round where as brass/M193 is .31 a round, or $90 more per case. I'm saving enough money to replace my barrel in about 2 cases, so it doesn't really make sense for me to consider premature wear as a reason to not use the cheap stuff, unless its going to burn out my barrel before i can get through 2k rounds. The only reason I would stop using Wolf steel is if i cant find a solution to get my gun to run consistently after finding a cleaning process & schedule that allows my gun to run 100%.

[fishman]

How often do you clean a suppressed 223 AR that runs dirty steel cased ammo (Wolf)? I'd also like to hear recommendations on what grease/lube to apply at friction points for my particular scenario.

Steel Wolf ammo caused three breakages for me. I will never run that stuff again. It is filthy and damages the internals and leads to premature chamber wear.

What breakages did you experience?

Also, regarding premature chamber wear, Wolf steel is .22 a round where as brass/M193 is .31 a round, or $90 more per case. I'm saving enough money to replace my barrel in about 2 cases, so it doesn't really make sense for me to consider premature wear as a reason to not use the cheap stuff, unless its going to burn out my barrel before i can get through 2k rounds. The only reason I would stop using Wolf steel is if i cant find a solution to get my gun to run consistently after finding a cleaning process & schedule that allows my gun to run 100%.

a once fired 5.56 brass case sells for more than the difference in price though. Whether you reload them yourself or sell them. the brass cases are cheaper, without the wear of steel cases. its worth it for me to pick them up, or shoot with a brass catcher, and reload them. if you dont reload, sell them.

[poikilotrm]

What breakages did you experience?

An extractor, and two pins. It also stressed out my charging handle.

Also, regarding premature chamber wear, Wolf steel is .22 a round where as brass/M193 is .31 a round, or $90 more per case. I'm saving enough money to replace my barrel in about 2 cases, so it doesn't really make sense for me to consider premature wear as a reason to not use the cheap stuff, unless its going to burn out my barrel before i can get through 2k rounds. The only reason I would stop using Wolf steel is if i cant find a solution to get my gun to run consistently after finding a cleaning process & schedule that allows my gun to run 100%.

For those of us who respect our weapons as serious tools, and want them to be there for us if needed, a desire to destroy the weapon and make it less reliable is not present.

If your rifle is just a toy that you will never need to rely on, then do as you will. I got about 50,000 rounds out of my first upper after rebarreling once, and now I am on my second upper, where I expect the same performance. I take care of my equipment, because I need it to work.

Running M193 or M855 will allow for a reliable, clean, long service life. Lube before running, clean after running, and you won't have a high failure rate. No self loading weapon runs 100%.

Wolf is filthy and destructive. NATO spec stuff isn't.

[db0]

a once fired 5.56 brass case sells for more than the difference in price though. Whether you reload them yourself or sell them. the brass cases are cheaper, without the wear of steel cases. its worth it for me to pick them up, or shoot with a brass catcher, and reload them. if you dont reload, sell them.

Where can I sell once fired 556 brass for at least $.09+ per round? Thanks!

[fishman]

a once fired 5.56 brass case sells for more than the difference in price though. Whether you reload them yourself or sell them. the brass cases are cheaper, without the wear of steel cases. its worth it for me to pick them up, or shoot with a brass catcher, and reload them. if you dont reload, sell them.

Where can I sell once fired 556 brass for at least $.09+ per round? Thanks!

If you put it through a tumbler to clean it first, the going rate on etsy seems to be about 6-10 ¢
But really, if you shoot that much 5.56, buy a Dillon reloading press. Once the press is set up, It does not take that long to crank out 1000 rounds (I've done that in a day) which is almost the breakeven point of cost.