If someone was new to Archery

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Post by silencertalk »

It is interesting but makes sense - there is no free lunch. A bow which shoots at a faster speed also takes more effort to draw - even if they are both the same peak draw weight. The one which shoots faster due to a 'hard cam' just feels harder to pull along more of the draw path.

So a 55 lb 'round wheel' bow might shoot the same speed as a 50 lb 'hard cam' bow - but if so, they both took the same amount of effort to draw. The 50lb one is not more efficient or magical in any wheel.

So don't be fooled by which has the fastest rated speed no matter how tempting it is.
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Post by silencertalk »

For example, if a cam is designed to feature an unusually deep string groove, the consumer won't see an ad that says "Now with deeper grooves in the cams". You're more likely to see something like, "Now featuring the CoreTrackâ„¢ XS4 Cam with Accugroove Technology". So don't be too swayed by high-tech sounding cam advertisements. Manipulating the geometry of a small piece of machined aluminum isn't exactly a clean-room technology.
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Post by silencertalk »

Seems like parallel limbs was a big breakthrough in 2005 since I bought my bow:

http://www.huntersfriend.com/parallel-l ... -topic.htm

But just for hunters. Target shooters still like the old style because, I think, it has more inertia to prevent movement during aiming. Also, the new style is heavier.
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Post by silencertalk »

http://www.strictlybowhunting.com/index ... le&sid=218
In the days of round eccentrics I could draw 60-pounds without too much difficulty. As cams with more radical shapes and higher energy storing characteristics became prevalent, I hunted for a number of years with a 57-pound peak draw force. Over the years that was adjusted to 55-pounds and then to 53-pounds as bows became more efficient in storing energy...
So really, all the cams do is make a 53 lb bow take as much effort to draw as an older-tech 60 lb bow. All the more reason to be careful not to get too much peak draw weight.
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Post by yellowfin »

rsilvers wrote:Seems like parallel limbs was a big breakthrough in 2005 since I bought my bow:

http://www.huntersfriend.com/parallel-l ... -topic.htm

But just for hunters. Target shooters still like the old style because, I think, it has more inertia to prevent movement during aiming. Also, the new style is heavier.
Parallel limbs help everyone. The design not only reduces noise which gives hunters something to like, but the same cancellation effect also reduces hand shock (and recoil, as mentioned in the article, which again IS a factor) which lessens fatigue for target shooters. As with everything else with bows, tuning and adjustment to fit the individual is paramount and two different people can get two entirely different impressions of the same bow. The shorter axle to axle length isn't preferred by SOME target shooters, but with others it helps fit their body type better such as those with short arms and wide upper bodies and thus gives them the better bow for them.

Some newer bows with parallel limbs are heavier, but others are lighter. It often depends on the bow model and what you put on it; there are heavy old bows and light new bows and vice versa. The article points out that there is more riser in parallel limb bows but doesn't take into account lighter limbs and risers of newer bow models resulting from advances in design. I shoot an old bow with "standard" limbs and a newer bow with parallel limbs interchangeably and like them both, though differently. *shrug* (It's easier than if I were to try having two wives.)
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Post by silencertalk »

I don't yet know which company I am supposed to like. PSE? Bowtech? Hoyt? Mathews?
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Post by yellowfin »

Hoyt, Mathews, Bowtech, Bear, PSE, HCA, Martin, etc. all have their fans and detractors, though all of those are generally considered reputable. The only one who can tell you which one(s) to like is you and how you shoot them. Isn't that the case with everything?
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Post by diablito »

yellowfin wrote:Hoyt, Mathews, Bowtech, Bear, PSE, HCA, Martin, etc. all have their fans and detractors, though all of those are generally considered reputable. The only one who can tell you which one(s) to like is you and how you shoot them. Isn't that the case with everything?
I'll take one of each and shoot the same with all... even if they're set up differently... PRACTICE... thats what counts!
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Post by elkonastick »

I have a 60-70# compound. I can turn it down to 50#'s and it'll still shoot ok. Nice thing about a compound. I have a Bear Grizzly recurve, I like it and the price isn't bad.
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Post by tuff »

elkonastick wrote:I have a 60-70# compound. I can turn it down to 50#'s and it'll still shoot ok. Nice thing about a compound. I have a Bear Grizzly recurve, I like it and the price isn't bad.
Only way your getting a 60-70lb compound bow all the way down to 50s is one of two things, your string and cables are WAY WAY worn out and you are backing your limb bolts out past 6 full turns which could end up bad..

just be careful ....
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Post by elkonastick »

tuff wrote:
elkonastick wrote:I have a 60-70# compound. I can turn it down to 50#'s and it'll still shoot ok. Nice thing about a compound. I have a Bear Grizzly recurve, I like it and the price isn't bad.
Only way your getting a 60-70lb compound bow all the way down to 50s is one of two things, your string and cables are WAY WAY worn out and you are backing your limb bolts out past 6 full turns which could end up bad..

just be careful ....
No, I turn it down to around 52#'s for turkey, always have. Even after new string. Shoots ok, a little noisy. Limb bolts still have alot left.
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