Please advise if there’s an article or “sticky” here as a guide to shooting suppressors wet. I couldn’t find one.
I have a Rugged Obsidian that I’m pleased with, but I’ve only shot it dry thus far. I’ve been searching different types of ablatives, but I guess my concern is do you have to clean/dry the baffles and tube after shooting wet? Looks like wire pulling gel is water-based, so if you don’t clean/dry it after use, can it cause stainless steel baffles to rust? Or will shooting an extra mag at the end of range session dry it out?
I’ve also seen posts elsewhere of others using ultrasound gel and even KY lubricant. I also found db Foam which claims it protects against corrosion, but it’s a lot pricier at $35 for a 16 oz. can at Brownells. Of course, if the can lasts a thousand rounds, might be worth it unless it dries out before you can use it all. (I have no idea how long a 16 oz. can would last.) Just looking for opinions as to the type of ablative as well as whether most folks dry/clean the baffles and tube after use.
And will running it wet make a big difference? On Rugged’s website, their specs for 45 list the db at 138 db dry and 132 db wet in the short configuration, but they only list db at 129 dry (with no value for wet) in the short configuration. Not sure why they don’t list the wet db in the long configuration. If a 10 db increase is equivalent to a doubling in volume, then I guess it might be worth it for a 6 db decrease, but I just wonder what the difference will be in the “real world.”
All thoughts appreciated.
Questions about running suppressor wet.
Moderators: mpallett, mr fixit, bakerjw, renegade
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
Many guys will put thicker coatings on the baffles themselves so they can store them wet.
Granted those are probably with Ti or Al baffles.
Granted those are probably with Ti or Al baffles.
I don't care what your chart says
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
Lithium grease
300 blackout form 1: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137293
5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
Ah. . . . lithium grease. Excellent idea.
Thank you both for replying.
Thank you both for replying.
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- Silent But Deadly
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Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
Yep. I like NAPA Lith-ease. Comes in conveniently sized tubes, works well. You don't get quite as much suppression with grease as you do water, but grease doesn't move around and can be on the baffles indefinitely for carry & storage. Lithium grease not only protects the internals from corrosion, but also makes cleaning a snap.fishman wrote:Lithium grease
If you ever do run water, clean as soon as possible. Titanium doesn't care, but stainless parts can corrode, and aluminum parts will react very quickly with the salts and other residual chemicals & elements left by the burned powder when combined with moisture anywhere that the anodizing has worn off, exposing raw aluminum. This is exacerbated anywhere raw AL is in contact with Ti; Ti is far more noble, will cause significant galvanic corrosion of the aluminum.
FFL07/02SOT Gunsmith & Machinist
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
I use wire-pulling gel.
For those recommending lithium grease, do you have a preferred brand or formulation?
For those recommending lithium grease, do you have a preferred brand or formulation?
7 stamps and 1 in jail
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
I don't care what your chart says
- Capt. Link.
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Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
The Mobilith SHC™ is the same, have you tried spray Li its better than chopsticks.I'm fond of little squirt bottles.ECCO Machine wrote:
Yep. I like NAPA Lith-ease. Comes in conveniently sized tubes, works well. You don't get quite as much suppression with grease as you do water, but grease doesn't move around and can be on the baffles indefinitely for carry & storage. Lithium grease not only protects the internals from corrosion, but also makes cleaning a snap.
If you ever do run water, clean as soon as possible. Titanium doesn't care, but stainless parts can corrode, and aluminum parts will react very quickly with the salts and other residual chemicals & elements left by the burned powder when combined with moisture anywhere that the anodizing has worn off, exposing raw aluminum. This is exacerbated anywhere raw AL is in contact with Ti; Ti is far more noble, will cause significant galvanic corrosion of the aluminum.
A question on galling is anti seize enough or should other alloys be used for caps etc when using ti tubing.
John A. the li will just mellow you a bit.....no worries mon!
The only reason after 243 years the government now wants to disarm you is they intend to do something you would shoot them for!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=79895
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
The kind at the auto parts store lolmbogo wrote:I use wire-pulling gel.
For those recommending lithium grease, do you have a preferred brand or formulation?
I also use wire pulling gel and water
300 blackout form 1: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137293
5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
5.56 form 1:
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141800&p=955647#p955647
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
Not often mentioned is the soaking the can and baffles, especially for .22 cans,
with Silicone DOT 5 Brake Fluid
to facilitate by orders of magnitude cleaning
residual 'sludge' contaminating the can.
For threads coating the end cap threads with
Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant
has proven valuable over the years.
Empirical evidence:
always coating spark plugs for 1970 280 SL, nearing 50 years, onto
Aluminum head has resulted in no galling, threads perfect. And temps
comparable to a can. Just a calibration point.
with Silicone DOT 5 Brake Fluid
to facilitate by orders of magnitude cleaning
residual 'sludge' contaminating the can.
For threads coating the end cap threads with
Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant
has proven valuable over the years.
Empirical evidence:
always coating spark plugs for 1970 280 SL, nearing 50 years, onto
Aluminum head has resulted in no galling, threads perfect. And temps
comparable to a can. Just a calibration point.
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
Wish I had seen this earlier... no wonder I'm having thoughts about... well, don't wanna get kicked off the forum..John A. wrote:I don't use lithium for this set of reasons.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK499992/
I use "Blitz" brand foamy spray lithium grease and put it in both holes... don't have to touch it with my hands and there seems to be far less back splatter than with wire pulling gel which I have used by the cases over the years.... the low temp one for being up here in Alaska. The spray lithium seems to protect any type of baffle or monocore or tube and I can leave the suppressor full of the stuff without worrying that it will leak all over everything. Also have used Seal 1 spray non-toxic grease but it's pressurized and hard to get up to Alaska. It has pretty much the same characteristics as the Blitz, stays foamy for weeks... doesn't run.
Never have used water.. no sticking ability and can hurt things on the inside they say.
George from Alaska
Re: Questions about running suppressor wet.
I have used water and it is a MESS! In my Rugged Obsidian 45 I like using ultrasound gel. It's cheap on amazon, only $10 for two large tubes that will last many thousands of rounds. It DOES NOT blow back in your face like water or lower viscosity ablatives and it burns off when you shoot so theres little to no clean up of the suppressor besides the normal carbon buildup from shooting suppressed. The gel makes it possible to store the can wet for a long time without it drying or running. Highly recommend it!