Cleaning my AAC EVO 9

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K1LLSW1TCH2
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Cleaning my AAC EVO 9

Post by K1LLSW1TCH2 »

Hey guys,

I wanted to clean my AAC Evo 9 and was just wondering the best way to go about it in your opinions...

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hemi
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Post by hemi »

Soak it in nothing, shoot the piss out of it. No need to clean it, only the piston/booster assembly need cleaned.
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Post by K1LLSW1TCH2 »

So you're tellin me that absolutely no build up gets into that thing?
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SFCat66
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Post by SFCat66 »

The threads regarding cleaning on this site are Legion. Try the search function, but short answer is you will get some foulingin the baffles, but it will be very difficult to remove. Most settle for a quick wash in the solvent of their choice and air drying. The most important part is to clean the piston/booster/spring assembly, ensure the o-rings are pliable, and that there is no carbon fouling in the booster seating area of the can.
"Normal is a cycle on a washing machine"

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chrismartin
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Post by chrismartin »

If you really feel like cleaning it soak it in lacquer thinner or kroil.

You will be disappointed though, it doesn't do much cause there isn't much to be done. It's really just a little carbon build up. It's not like lead that stacks up and stacks up until the can is full.

I have soaked mine and it will get some of the carbon build up out, but it's really not much. The most important thing is to clean up the piston and booster area. That area is easy to clean and lube up as needed. I have had my piston be difficult to install and remove and when clean, it's easy. That area will also cause problems with cycling if it gets too gummed up.
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Tyris
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Post by Tyris »

I see build-up forming in mine.

I am going to make it a take apart can. Will post pictures.

-T
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Diomed
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Post by Diomed »

Tyris wrote:I see build-up forming in mine.

I am going to make it a take apart can. Will post pictures.

-T
F--k yeah. Warranties are for pansies and women.
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Tyris
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Post by Tyris »

Diomed wrote:F--k yeah. Warranties are for pansies and women.
Well, lets face it, the individual parts are not impossible to copy. If I get a baffle strike then I'll ask one of the local class3s to make me a new end cap, if I wear out the weak aluminum blast baffle, I'll replace it with a stainless one. If I break it so bad that no local talent can fix it I'll buy an SWR Trident.

Tornado Tech opened my 22 can and added a baffle in the giant blast-chamber, all to good effect.

-T
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Post by Davo5o »

The end cap of my evo-40 "came off", thanks to a EFK firedragon barrel. There is a simple retaining ring that needs a special tool to take off, then it looks like the baffels just drop out? I talked to AAC about it, and they said the baffels were alligned and "Tunned" for that round so dissassembly was strongly discouraged, plus voids the warrantee. Either way didn't seem very complicated to me.
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Tyris
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Post by Tyris »

Davo5o wrote:The end cap of my evo-40 "came off", thanks to a EFK firedragon barrel. There is a simple retaining ring that needs a special tool to take off, then it looks like the baffels just drop out? I talked to AAC about it, and they said the baffels were alligned and "Tunned" for that round so dissassembly was strongly discouraged, plus voids the warrantee. Either way didn't seem very complicated to me.

What did the EFK barrel have to do with the end cap (muzzle end?)
Can you post a pic of the end cap and the tube?
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Post by Davo5o »

It blew my end cap off, that's what EFK had to do with it. I sold the gun, and am still stuck with the barrel. I just need to send it back and stop bitching.
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Post by Tyris »

Davo5o wrote:It blew my end cap off, that's what EFK had to do with it. I sold the gun, and am still stuck with the barrel. I just need to send it back and stop bitching.
How is the barrel responsible for the end cap? Or are you using a round about way of blaming a messed up threading job on EFK? Just come out and say EFK did a shitty thread job leading to an end cap strike.

When I talked with EFK it was clear that he threads for muzzle brakes and does not understand the need to thread concentric to the bore. I bought one of their extended barrels for my EVO 40 but had Tornado Tech do the actual threading. Mine shoots better than the stock beretta barrel ever did.

Now I just dislike the Beretta :(

-T
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Post by lawless »

Heavy metal poisoning is a very real and dangerous threat to your health if you follow some of the recommended solvents on here. People wont shoot in a non ventilated room but I see many a thread about people trying to clean toxic s--t out of their cans. I would be willing to bet the farm that better than half of the people who use those substances have no idea how to properly dispose of the leftovers. Put your can in a plastic bag full of water and freeze it. Then run it under hot water and youll be amazed at the carbon crap that comes out of it. No reason to go after all that lead. Why not just leave that to the manufacturer to do it. If you found out what you are paid hourly and clocked in every time you cleaned a can uselessly you would end up paying more for your can in time than just sending it to who you bought it from and having it rebuilt. Not to mention the the hundreds of dollars you shoot through that can that you wont ever get back. One more thing, shoot a can that has about a thousand rounds through it and then shoot one thats brand new. Do that and youll be asking yourself why in the hell you would take apart your can or try to clean any selaed can I understand full auto 22 cans need to be taken apart, I just hope those people are properly disposing of the waste.
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Post by DEVIL DOC »

lawless101aa wrote:Heavy metal poisoning is a very real and dangerous threat to your health if you follow some of the recommended solvents on here. People wont shoot in a non ventilated room but I see many a thread about people trying to clean toxic s--t out of their cans. I would be willing to bet the farm that better than half of the people who use those substances have no idea how to properly dispose of the leftovers. Put your can in a plastic bag full of water and freeze it. Then run it under hot water and youll be amazed at the carbon crap that comes out of it. No reason to go after all that lead. Why not just leave that to the manufacturer to do it. If you found out what you are paid hourly and clocked in every time you cleaned a can uselessly you would end up paying more for your can in time than just sending it to who you bought it from and having it rebuilt. Not to mention the the hundreds of dollars you shoot through that can that you wont ever get back. One more thing, shoot a can that has about a thousand rounds through it and then shoot one thats brand new. Do that and youll be asking yourself why in the hell you would take apart your can or try to clean any selaed can I understand full auto 22 cans need to be taken apart, I just hope those people are properly disposing of the waste.
+1
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lawless
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Post by lawless »

Thanks DOC. All too often people seem to ignore this fact. Organic lead in and of itself is not even absorbable nor toxic to the human body. However non organic lead that is vaporized everytime you shoot a gun comes out of the primer and into the air you are breathing. Anyone thinking about blowback on their ARs yet. Then when you guys use that amazing vinegar and hydrogen peroxide trick, you are creating a very toxic chemical that can KILL YOU. That is no s--t. Read up on Arsenic poisoning because lead acetate is the precipitate that you get when you combine lead, acetic acid (vinegar), and Hydrogen peroxide. I would be willing to bet people have had this come into contact with their skin and didnt even know the extreme danger they are putting themselves in. Lead acetate is a water soluble salt that can be absorbed through skin contact and can seriously F--k you up. If you use this s--t be careful and dont saok it for a long time. It has also been known to pit certain grades of steel in extended soak times. Send it to the manufacturer, let the professionals doit. Then the next time you go see a urologist your sperm may actually not cause your future children to have potential birth defects, not to mention the nasty s--t heavy metal poisoning will do to you. BE CAREFUL. That by product of cleaning your can should be put in a glass container and takend to your nearest hazardous waste disposal site. Dumping it down the drain is just going to cause problems for innocent animals and possibly other people just because you were a lazy ass. Please dispose of it properly if you must use it, but sending it back to the manf. makes more and more sense the more I type doesnt it.
If "God" has a problem with porn, and getting wasted, then I'm goin to hell..... Cus that's where I can suck jello shots off a hooker's tits.
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Post by 1_ar_newbie »

Interesting!

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Post by DEVIL DOC »

kangaroo kids and cancer, I'd rather be deaf. F--k it I'll fight dirty. :wink:
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Post by apochachuva »

lawless101aa wrote:Thanks DOC. All too often people seem to ignore this fact. Organic lead in and of itself is not even absorbable nor toxic to the human body. However non organic lead that is vaporized everytime you shoot a gun comes out of the primer and into the air you are breathing. Anyone thinking about blowback on their ARs yet. Then when you guys use that amazing vinegar and hydrogen peroxide trick, you are creating a very toxic chemical that can KILL YOU. That is no s--t. Read up on Arsenic poisoning because lead acetate is the precipitate that you get when you combine lead, acetic acid (vinegar), and Hydrogen peroxide. I would be willing to bet people have had this come into contact with their skin and didnt even know the extreme danger they are putting themselves in. Lead acetate is a water soluble salt that can be absorbed through skin contact and can seriously F--k you up. If you use this s--t be careful and dont saok it for a long time. It has also been known to pit certain grades of steel in extended soak times. Send it to the manufacturer, let the professionals doit. Then the next time you go see a urologist your sperm may actually not cause your future children to have potential birth defects, not to mention the nasty s--t heavy metal poisoning will do to you. BE CAREFUL. That by product of cleaning your can should be put in a glass container and takend to your nearest hazardous waste disposal site. Dumping it down the drain is just going to cause problems for innocent animals and possibly other people just because you were a lazy ass. Please dispose of it properly if you must use it, but sending it back to the manf. makes more and more sense the more I type doesnt it.
Lead acetate is an organic lead compound.
Lead poisoning isn't quite the same as arsenic poisoning, but it's still nasty.
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Post by Davo5o »

Tyris wrote:
Davo5o wrote:It blew my end cap off, that's what EFK had to do with it. I sold the gun, and am still stuck with the barrel. I just need to send it back and stop bitching.
How is the barrel responsible for the end cap? Or are you using a round about way of blaming a messed up threading job on EFK? Just come out and say EFK did a shitty thread job leading to an end cap strike.

When I talked with EFK it was clear that he threads for muzzle brakes and does not understand the need to thread concentric to the bore. I bought one of their extended barrels for my EVO 40 but had Tornado Tech do the actual threading. Mine shoots better than the stock beretta barrel ever did.

Now I just dislike the Beretta :(

-T
EFK theaded the barrel. Nuff said.
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wolf
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Post by wolf »

Lead acetate was once used to make food taste sweet ,,no s--t

Do a gogle for sugar of lead :roll:
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Post by apochachuva »

wolf wrote:Lead acetate was once used to make food taste sweet ,,no s--t

Do a gogle for sugar of lead :roll:
yeah, they used it as an artificial sweetener in Roman times IIRC.
"You'll put yer eye out with that thing"

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