Howdy All,
I'm new to the forum and new to suppressors. I finally got my tax stamp and form 4 back a few weeks ago and have shot my new AAC Ti-Rant 9M suppressor. I've got a .22 pistol I'd like to try it with, but I know that this will likely lead to significant build-up that will need to be cleaned. During disassembly and cleaning, I noted the instructions said to ensure you used an aluminum-safe solvent on the baffles. I typically use Hoppes #9 to clean my guns, but I understand this is not an aluminum safe solvent.
What is the recommended solvent to use with the AAC Ti-Rant 9M? I did some searching and didn't find an answer.
Thanks!
Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
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Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
No replies on this one.
After your shooting session take the can apart and soak everything in simple green. Then take a toothbrush to it to clean it up. Should be good to go!
After your shooting session take the can apart and soak everything in simple green. Then take a toothbrush to it to clean it up. Should be good to go!
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Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
I knock the chunks out, clean and regrease the threads (Li grease on internals). Nothing more. I've never used cleaning products in a suppressor.
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Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
I use a 50/50 mix of H2O2 and vinegar, after I scrape off the gross lead build up. It works quite well, but can harm Al if you let it sit too long.
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Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
Absolutely do not use simple green to clean anything made of aluminum. I learned this the hard hard way once when I soaked a set of aluminum pistons from and engine I was rebuilding in some simple green overnight. They were dissolved and the metal was ruined.
Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
You aren't kidding! Simple Green makes an aluminum safe, Aircraft and Precision Cleaner that is better.aaronjsmith wrote: ↑Thu May 21, 2020 7:32 pm Absolutely do not use simple green to clean anything made of aluminum. I learned this the hard hard way once when I soaked a set of aluminum pistons from and engine I was rebuilding in some simple green overnight. They were dissolved and the metal was ruined.
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Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
Can you define 'too long'? An hour? Four?poikilotrm wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:51 pm I use a 50/50 mix of H2O2 and vinegar, after I scrape off the gross lead build up. It works quite well, but can harm Al if you let it sit too long.
thanks
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Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
I bought a cheap clear glass vase from Walmart as my solvent vessel. I disassemble my can, and put it in, then go half and half with vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I find concentrated cleaning vinegar works better than table vinegar. I then watch the reaction, and wait until it slows way down. I then remove the parts, rinse them off, scrape the remaining gross lead away (WEAR GLOVES AND FACE PROTECTION!), then repeat the dip with a fresh solution.mbogo300 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 14, 2020 10:27 amCan you define 'too long'? An hour? Four?poikilotrm wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:51 pm I use a 50/50 mix of H2O2 and vinegar, after I scrape off the gross lead build up. It works quite well, but can harm Al if you let it sit too long.
thanks
The can's parts won't get etched unless there is no more lead to attack. You'll never get it completely clean. You are trying for "good enough", so just watch and wait for the slow down. It usually happens in 10 to 20 minutes, depending on how well you scraped the lead prior to the dip.
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Re: Aluminum-Safe Solvents?
Hydrogen peroxide is used for dissolving aluminum in the mirror industry. If you chemically block the oxidation of the metal you will get a powerful exothermic reaction that will remove all traces of the aluminum "explosively". A chemical with a low reactivity to aluminum and a high one with lead should be chosen.This is in no way a dig just chemical fact.
I use a heated 50/50 mix of water and Simple Green for all cleaning of firearms parts.The simple green is lowly reactive with aluminum but with the typical dunk, scrub, rinse, oil of most parts I have never seen any problems using it. A non reactive solution of simple green dose exist but not tried. Carbon can be removed by solution but everywhere I read lead removal must be through abrasive action and solution.A wet corn cob or walnut slurry should be effective when you must remove the lead. The other choice is a lead removal cloth or aluminum polish.Unless its extensive I would skip cleaning the lead off and just keep the carbon deposits low.
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I use a heated 50/50 mix of water and Simple Green for all cleaning of firearms parts.The simple green is lowly reactive with aluminum but with the typical dunk, scrub, rinse, oil of most parts I have never seen any problems using it. A non reactive solution of simple green dose exist but not tried. Carbon can be removed by solution but everywhere I read lead removal must be through abrasive action and solution.A wet corn cob or walnut slurry should be effective when you must remove the lead. The other choice is a lead removal cloth or aluminum polish.Unless its extensive I would skip cleaning the lead off and just keep the carbon deposits low.
-CL
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